Thankful for Team and Turkey

I am missing my family this thanksgiving... not to mention my mom’s cranberry chutney and sweet potato casserole. But I am SO thankful for a wonderful team with whom I can celebrate. One traditional meal item that we did not have to do without was turkey. I had a drumstick and though it was not the fat, juicy meat I am used to, what it lacked in tenderness it made up for in freshness. How fresh you might ask? Well, I witnessed its last breaths this morning. After which came my first turkey slaughtering experience. Instead of describing this one I will just let the pictures give you the gruesome details.

Step 1: Tie up the dog, no matter how excited she may be about this event.

Step 2: Inhibit wing movement by placing a foot on each. You don’t want violent flapping to make the process more lengthy than needed.

Step 3: Hold the head steady with on hand while swiftly sawing the jugular with the other hand, allowing blood to drain. (It is normal for the turkey to be blinking through this processes and trashing my occur upon removing feet from wings)

Turkey number 2 can’t watch...

Luke the professional. Kids don’t try this at home, but if you do, remember to wear gloves.

Step 4: Spa/ feather loosening treatment

Step 5: De-feather with your own two hands (gloves not required)

I am THANKFUL that I’m not a pioneer woman who has to kill my own meat, and that there are boys to do it for me when necessary.

The Art of the Boda Boda

On Monday I traveled the 8 or so kilometers to Bundibugyo town. The most efficient method of transport for this thirty minute scenic trip is a sputtering moped taxi called a boda boda. I have really been looking forward to my first boda riding experience and I was not disappointed. Sarah and I walked from our house into Nyahuka where we negotiated our fare, 5000 shillings... about $2.75 and climbed aboard. I got the middle. You may be wondering how a boda can manage two passengers. I assure you this is nothing. We were passed on the road by a boda carrying not 2 but 3 passengers (4 people total, one of whom held a chicken). Economy is a theme here. In an effort to conserve fuel boda drivers are constantly cutting off the engine to cruise down hills. This always makes me a little nervous after Sarah told of one driver who upon trying to restart the engine without success said, “Sorry, fuel is finished” and they walked the rest of the way. I was also surprised by the smoothness of the ride. This is no small accomplishment when one considers the road riddled with pot holes and protruding rocks that must be navigated. However, while there may be limited bumps it is not a straight path. Staying on your side of the road only seems to apply if your side is the smoother one. There is always a mud puddle to be dogged, a truck to beware of coming around the bend, or a pedestrian carrying a large bundle of fire wood on her back. The challenge for the rider is to try to keep the majority of both butt cheeks on the seat... a constant shifting battle.

So we arrived in Bundi town, backside disagreeing with my previous observation of a smooth ride. We did our errands, Bundibuyo town has the only bank in the district of 300,000 inhabitants, it also has a gas station. We went to the market where we were able to procure a pumpkin, carrots, and green peppers... things that don’t come with such ease in Nyahuka. We then treated ourselves to lunch out... rice, beans, greens, and... soda! For our dining pleasure on the little TV was women’s wrestling. Not exactly the taste of America I was longing for. Never the less, lunch was much enjoyed and we continued on.

Our driver for the way back was a little more daring and the ride definitely more thrilling, this may also have had been due to the fact that we were heading down the mountain. At one point there was a bit of a bottle neck as we slowed down because of a wedding. On either side of the road people were lined up in their finest, music was starting to blare and I could see a little arch way decked out with pink tule. This was going to be an event. As we slowed down a man looking very smart (as they would say here) asked us to join them, however we declined. I was enjoying myself thoroughly until we got behind a truck and I stared to taste grit in my mouth from all the kicked up dirt. But, I made it back to Nyahuka unharmed. The only alteration was being a slight shade darker due to the intense equatorial sun and a layer of dirt newly plastered, not sure which was the greatest contributing factor. All in all it was yet another great Ugandan adventure!!

A day of Adventure

The morning started with my first a rat killing attempt... an attempt without success. I beat the cabinet and with a large bamboo stick hoping to send the rat to Sarah’s side where she waited with a golf club. We made a lot of noise and waited expectantly... but no rat. So the little guy is still running around somewhere.

The agenda for the rest of the day was to go to Semliki National Forest and hike the 14 km to the Semliki River, which separates Uganda from Congo. Sarah, Nathan, Joel and I headed down Bundibugyo road (the only road) toward our destination. We winded and bumped through the hills, the Rwenzori Mountian range towering to our right. The road has apparently just been graded and was much better to ride on, Nathan was excited to get the jeep into 4th gear.

When we arrived at the park we were able to secure a guide, only after we stared at each other for a while as he considered whether or not he was willing to get started on the trek so late in the day. After that delay and a stop at the “flash toilet” (supposed to be “flush toilet”) we were off. This is the rainy season so I was thankful for my borrowed rubber boots as we sloshed under eucalyptus, palms, and huge trees with buttress roots. We saw some exotic birds and a monkey or two. We started to get unpleasant whiffs of sulfur then the path opened into a clearing where we were transported back into the land before time. White mists rose from the ground against a back drop of prehistoric looking trees. Green mountains shot up dramatically behind. White clay bubbled and miniature volcanoes spewed into the hot springs. If we had brought eggs we could have hard boiled lunch. I almost expected a brontosaurus to poke through the foliage.

We crossed the marsh via board walk. Over creeks through the woods we trudged. The heat was getting intense, if not for the tree cover it would have been unbearable. We spotted buffalo tracks, tracks of a deer variety, even elephant tracks but unfortunately saw none. We did see some crazy insects: a red spider that had a crab body, bright green inch worms with whiskers, butterflies of many varieties, and we sighted with the vicious impali ants at a range that was too close for comfort. Their pinchers draw blood. I did a shrieking, swatting dash as I realized they were moving up my boots. I am happy to say there was no blood shed.
We did make it to the river, took a few snaps of Congo and scrambled back up the muddy bank. I had no desire to linger as a 7m croc had been spotted in this very river. The way back was tiring and I longed to be sitting in the jeep feeling a breeze hopefully drying my sweat soaked shirt. As we reached the edge of the park our guide took us on a shorter route by road. We passed a truck that had been in an accident just a day or so before. I remember hearing about how several people had recently been killed in an accident. I cringed as we passed a reddish mud puddle where flies swarmed.

Hot springs

The Semliki River

Today was a great day. I was surrounded by amazing beauty and continually put in awe of the Creator. But Africa is full or reminders that we live a world filled with both beauty and pain. God loves extravagantly yet is far from safe... something I have so much to learn about in the days to come.

Dinner Out

I am back from dinner at my new friend Naomi’s house. I walked in to Naomi’s tiny mud house, the front room was completely filled by a small table. Behind one faded curtain are sleeping quarters. Behind the other I heard clucking of the other residents... three turkeys. We sat as the charcoal smoke from the cook fire wafted in, faces glowing with lamp light. We got more and more excited with each pot Naomi brought in as each one moved us closer to the feast. And I do mean feast. Africans eat like none other. The spread consisted of rice with peanut sauce, beans, and sombee. Sombee is a leaf that has to be beaten for about and hour to release the cyanide, then cooked to be something like the greens we enjoy in the south, all these piled high in a bowl. Then one eats and eats. I thought it might be smart to eat quickly so that I could finish it all before I felt too bloated, then Naomi started scooping me more sombee. By the time we left I was far beyond full.

Naomi lives with her grandmother, Mamba. I like Mamba very much. Mamba greeted us warmly and smiled revealing pink gums and a tooth something resembling a fang. Supposedly she has 2 teeth, I have yet to see the other. She goes on and on in Lubwisi I smile and say “mmm..” (equivalent to the smile and nod) She occasionally will revert back to the traditional greetings, as this is the only thing I understand and can make a reply. Mamba just likes to talk. My roommates Sarah and Ashley and Heidi (a nurse in Bundi) are better at communicating, but still there are a lot of mmm...s. Mamba laughs. She then starts to count to 10... in English. Amazing! Hardly anyone here speaks English, but this old woman is learning. She wants to talk that much. The other school kids in the room laugh as she attempts other words. I understand this feeling well... many giggle at my awkwardness in a place and culture so unlike my own. A feeling that is soon to be a constant companion as I will really be trying to learn Labwisi these next couple months. Pray that I would be like Mamba, having a strong desire to communicate with these people as well as the ability to laugh at myself. Pray that I will be disciplined and that God would provide a good Babwisi language helper and friend for me.

A few snaps

In Bundi taking a picture is called taking a snap. So here are some snaps from my last few days is in Bundibugyo.

Two days ago I left Kampala in a tiny little four seater plane, even got to sit in the copilot’s seat. We flew west over a green Uganda. After crossing the Rwenzori Mountains we circled around to be in position over the the small green strip below... our runway. And we landed. Kids waved from the tall grass. Then when the plane landed stood behind the profellers so their shirts would balloon out. The team greeted us also waving, some standing on top of their vehicles. It was so wonderful to meet these people I have so long to be with.

Yesterday I visited the health clinic where several of my teammates work. I was shown in the delivery room, a tired mother rested and a healthy newborn lay bundled only minutes old. It was amazing the baby had survived because it had been a twin and the twin had died long before. The cause of this child’s second chance at life was being in a different amniotic sac. “Not something you see every day Jennifer” said... EXACTLY what I was thinking.

Nyahuka is the closest village to me in Bundibugyo. Today was market day and because Christmas is soon it was very crowded. The plies of shoes on the mats were higher... more fabrics, more clothes as the second hand stalls. Coco, the cash crop is in. This means people also have money to spend. My favorite scene: A boy herding two goats through the mazes of muddy streams, stalls, and people with a basket of live chickens on his head.

I was walking up the path by myself making my way to a teammates house when from behi

nd I hear someone called out, “Anna” I stopped and turned around. A smiling face with bright white teeth and warm dark eyes greeted me. “How are you?” she said. I was relieved that she was communicating in English and embarrassed that I did not know her name. I explained that I had met so many people and could she please tell me her name again. She said, “Oh I haven’t met you yet. I just heard that you were coming and wanted to greet you, my name is Pauline.” That pretty much sums up the happiness I feel at being here. Can’t wait to share more.