Firsts

I’ve been in Africa for about a year and half now. It feels good to be getting adjust and good to feel like Bundibugyo is my home. But I guess I kind of crave adventure and a little of the unexpected, discovering things for the first time. Well this past week has had some firsts for me... and I like it.

1. My first Matatu over the mountains.

Jessica and I were traveling back to Bundibugyo from Kampala. I like to take public transport. Usually I take the Kalita (African grey hound) that goes direct to Bundibugyo town. However there is only one such bus that leaves daily from Kampala and usually it puts us back after dark. We decided to take an earlier Kalita to Fort Portal then take a matatu (minibus taxi) the rest of the way. We arrived in Fort in good time and were quickly directed to the taxi pick up point the matatus. The one poised to go to Bundibugyo was packed with 17 or 18 passengers (despite the 14 passenger limit posted on the side) They assured us there was room for us. The other choice for transport was a little white pickup truck. The driver of this vehicle grabbed our bags and encouraged us to get in, “We go now... 6,000 (shillings)” Then we learned the cab was full and we would be standing in the back with about 15 other people and their stuff. So we somehow managed to cram inside the matatu five adults across in a seat that was meant for 3 people. And we were off. As soon as we hit the open road the driver flipped down his visor and chose one or the 4 cassette tapes, his personal playlist, self recorded, for our listening pleasure. For the first hour I was distracted from the tingling in my feet as they fell asleep and the pain in my shins as they continually bumped into the boards in front of my legs by the Titanic Theme song, Alison Krauss, “You say it best”, and some other real classics. While I was far from comfortable, I was happy that we were making good time till we left the new part of the road for the old road which is horrible! Huge rocks gutting out sometimes 6 inches above the rest of the road, we slowed to a steady 20 km per hour for the rest of the trip. It was a long 25 km to town. Just as we arrived it started to rain. We rushed over the post office to check mail and wait out the rain. I decide that since we didn’t have much luggage a boda boda (motorcycle taxi) would be the best way to go the last 12 km to our village of Nyahuka. Which leads me to the next “first.”

2. Riding a boda in the pouring rain!

At first it was just sprinkling and it actually felt pretty good on my sweaty, dusty body. Then after getting off to walk up a muddy hill and and skidding down another and the drops were coming faster, we pulled over, and ran into a little duka. Besides the shop keeper and a man and his little girl, Jessica and I were the only others who could fit in. Our drivers just sat under the eves of the building as buckets and buckets pelted against the little tin roof. I greeted the shop keeper and the little girl who looked like she was going to cry at the sight of me. I rummaged through a soggy package that I had just picked up and found some smarties that brought a smile to her face. The down poor did finally stop and our drivers expertly transported us to safety. I was pretty glad to make it home!

3. Yesterday was my first time to milk our cow Truffle.

We now have 2 dairy cows and needed another milker. Since the cows have been at RMS I have bonded with them. The big cow eyes and the occasional nibble at my skirt is somehow quite endearing. It went pretty well. I need to work on my speed but Truffle seemed to be OK with it.

4. Also yesterday I spotted the first watermelon in my garden.

If you have ever tried to grow watermelon, you know it takes a long time! So far I have one that is about the size of an American football. Praying no worms get to it!

We will see what other “firsts” are on the horizon :)

RMS: Rwenzori Moving School

Rwenzori Mission School is our peaceful little school up the hill from the river nestled among the plumeria and and hibiscus. Over the past six months our little mission school has been on the move. I have wonderful flexible students that are able to do school just about anywhere. So I pack my little back of school supplies and books and can set up school in many locations.

So far we have had school in Kampala on the couch cushions of our hotel.

When spent a few days in Fort Portal, Lilli and I marched through the tea fields counting by twos as we went. And had our traditional “Tuesday Tea” actually in a tea field.

Near Kassese we had school over looking the African Savannah.

Lilli read her, I Can Read It book in Hoima. We were visiting the family of Edward Isingoma, our new headmaster at Christ School.

And I have to say one of the best field trips ever in Murchinson National Park where cape buffalo and warthogs ran through our camp. We witnessed the incredible power or Murchison falls as gallons and gallons of fast moving water from the Nile were funneled into a very small opening. We enjoyed the beauty and majesty of creation as we watched the graceful trotting of giraffes, sunbathing crocodiles, snorting hippos, powerful lumbering of the elephants, and the leaping almost flying antelope. Some things just can’t be learned in books... And Rwenzori Moving School is just the place for that to happen!

Saturday

We have a phrase that we say a lot here... “Never a dull moment” Which means days here include anything from fuel tanks falling off, hilarious comments like, “Cats, when you eat their feathers, it’s giving you like a pot belly.” ??? someone carrying a basket of chickens on their heads, or like this Saturday traipsing through the jungle that is our backyards. I guess that is just the adventure of living in Uganda.

So here is a typical (or perhaps not so typical) Saturday.... I actually slept in, thanks to the earplugs that blocked out the loud music from town, noisy neighbors and motorcycle horns from the road. Ate a bowl of homemade granola with milk from our cow. Piddled around in my pajamas for a bit getting things done around the house. Answered knocks at the door and sent some kids asking for work to get a pineapple and charcoal from the market. Headed to town a bit later to do a bit of shopping of my own. Perused outfits made from colorful African kitangi, hung on sticks outside the market. Already feeling sweat collecting on my upper lip. Chatted with Christine, a seamstress I like, about getting a dress made. Hurried to get the rest on my list and and get out of the equator sun. Feeling hot, tired, thirsty, and increasingly hungry stopped at a chapatti stand and got 2 to go. Sprawled out on the couch drinking a cold beverage. Up... and there went the power. Hopefully it will be back on so I can check email in the afternoon. Neighbor kids played cards on our porch. Paid a Esmo to weed in my garden that now has corn almost as tall as me!! Yay. Still no power so Chrissy and I accompanied the Johnsons down to the river to cool off. Down the ravine, trying not to slip or run into a banana tree. Boys hanging around shimmied up trees for fear of the Johnson’s dogs. Waded around, gave 2 dogs a bath. Went on a little safari adventure in search of a swimming hole, through the bush and peoples gardens to follow the river, avoiding impali (viscous biting ants) and groups of bathing men. Just one of the things we do for fun around here :)

Once we were back the plan was to grill on little Ugandan charcoal grill. I had only done this once before and I had a kid help me get the fire started... which at the time seemed really easy. After burning 10 sheets of scrap paper, melting 2 plastic bags, dumping the charcoal out 3 times to rearrange it, about 20 matches, some black and burned fingers later it was finally burning. Chrissy was in the kitchen skewering veggies and I started grilling the chicken. It promptly caught on fire and turned the outsides black. I started the veggies a little later and took off the blackened chicken. Due to some skewer flesh wounds, Chrissy and I switched jobs. I cutting into the chicken and seeing blood put it back over the coals. The power was still out so I lit candles, while Chrissy labored away over the fire, shooing away the 2 salivating, hovering dogs. After the 3rd check while veggies were on the table getting cold the chicken looked cooked and we sat down to enjoy. The chicken was pretty tasty once the quite crispy skin was removed. And after dinner a special treat. We had found mmmMallows (a pink and white version of marshmallows) in Kampala and were going to make s’mores. We loaded up some skewers with the non-pink variety and turned the marshmallows over the dying embers. Then put some America chocolate on rather stale cookies over the grill grate to melt and dry. The cookies ended up a little black too but it was definitely mmmGood. And a great end to a great day... with not one dull moment.

Owen showing off fire making skills I have yet to acquire

Sights and Sounds of Kampala

I have been in Kampala, the capital of Uganda, for the past couple days to do some restocking and just to have a rest from life in the boon docks. Here are a few snapshots of the “big city experience”.

Crazy traffic and sometimes even crazier boda drivers weaving around the “jam”.

People transporting large often dangerous items, like huge panes of glass on bodas.

A matatu (taxi van) with the top totally filled up with chickens.

Political campaigning trucks with huge loud speakers blaring music so loud that it kind of takes the breath out of you when you pass them.

The crazy mix of beamers along with sputtering run-down toyotas from the 80’s next to each other in traffic.

Security guards at pretty much every public place that carry huge guns.

Oversized wooden wheel barrows full of fresh pineapples to buy.

Restaurants (that serve something other than rice and beans) where someone else can do the cooking!

Techno/dance praise music from the nearby exercise club.

Advertisements in simple black and white on computer paper plastering telephone poles for everything from “JOBS IN CANADA” to “GAIN OR LOSE HIPS AND BUMS” CALL...

Lots of dust in the air that sticks all over your face and clothes from riding around the city... especially now in the dry season.

Children with babies strapped to their backs running across the road in bare feet to beg at your window while stopped at a traffic light.

Guys selling sunglasses, maps, air time, electric bug zappers, candy, grasshoppers from buckets, and any number of random items along the road.

Going to church where they sing familiar songs in English.

Tub on a boda

boda on a boda

Witnessing History: President Museveni causes the first Jam ever in Nyahuka

Zainabo came in Monday morning taking about town... “Ehhh! Towne, it is busy! Everyone is wearing yellow.” All of Nyahuka was in a bustle as they prepared for the visitation of the current president of Uganda, Museveni, on his campaign trail. Museveni came and spoke in Bundibugyo town in the spring, but today he was coming to the little trading post of Nyahuka. He has never reached this far! I could already hear motorcyclists going up and down the road. Honking more than usual. Susanna came in all excited. Zainabo translating for me that Susanna had never actually seen the president. The word on the street was that he was coming at 2:00; or was it mid day? Then when a motorcade drove past and a bunch of black SUVs at 9:30 the news was that it would be at 10:00! Susanna and a few others had run out to the road, then back a few minutes later, thrilled that they had seen the president... or at least his black car. Travis has been asked to go, and not wanting to miss the event Chrissy, Pat, Bethany, our friend Amina, Capu, Joas, and Joyce... and maybe someone I am forgetting all piled into the Johnson’s car and headed past town to a local elementary school that would be hosting this even. People with signs, sandwich boards, cardboard hats and flags continued to pour on to the road forming a parade. Trucks creating big clouds of dust were packed with way too many people. We were passing one and I swear the back tires were off the road and it looked like it was going to tip. We arrived at Bundikakemba primary school and drove a bit past to park in someone’s yard. We were not allowed to bring cameras in so Bethany snapped one last picture of a group practicing a tradition dance all decked out in feathers with tin can noise makers strapped to their ankles.

We got in the women’s line (substantially shorter than the men’s) and awaited our turn to get the full security pat down. Once in, Travis was escorted to special seating under the tent, but we were not so fortunate. There was an unfinished school building up on the hill that Pat had her eye on. We headed that way then settled ourselves in the windows. We were pretty far from all the action, but had a great view of all the festivities... and a breeze. Venders had tarps spread out selling political paraphernalia for the NRM where anyone who forgot to sport their yellow t-shirt with a large picture of Museveni on the front could purchase one. I prefer to stay out of politics here. But I have to admit I bought a visor with Uganda’s colors that said NRM with 2 thumbs up. (It was pretty sunny after all). We watched as the field became a sea of yellow and black. Two dance circles emerged, one for women and one for men, the drumming mirroring the excitement of the crowd.

After a while the security guards came off of their tank like, very intimidating vehicle and told us that we could not sit so high up. Despite our pleading we had to go down, but he did tell us that we could go and sit under the tent! (with the important people like the king of Congo who popped over for the event) Holding hands we squeezed through the crowd to the tent. We had to split up but all found a seat. I felt a little out of place with all the cheering and chants for everyone supporting the NRM and the bashing of the other parties. Isaiah, a local business man and board member from Christ’s School was particularly colorful with his yellow, red, and black track suit with NRM painted on the front and a yellow ball cap.

It was now after 1:00 and Museveni still had not shown up. We were to learn that he was not in the Mercedes truck/ movie star trailer. He was not even in the district yet and was scheduled to fly in on the mission airstrip. By about 2:30 he finally showed up to the general pleasure of everyone. I could not understand too much of his speach but, Isaiah frequently turned around to give me little tidbits. His speech was kind of like an interrogation of local officials and how they had been using money. But he did manage to address many issues and people love him here because we have received electricity and started the paved road construction from Fort Portal in this term of his presidency. At this point even if I could understand what was being said it is questionable that I would actually have absorbed it, as aIl I could think about was how incredibly hungry I was, wishing that some local chapatti maker would have had the foresight to see what a financial opporturnity setting up a stand would have been. Anyway! When Museveni finished we all pushed through the crowds to get back to the car. There was a river of people to traverse and this process took a while. Those walking (or footing as they say) made it back before we did. We passed Isaiah walking. He called to me, “Anna, you are seeing history. The first jam in Bundibugyo! Seriously, have you ever seen this?!” What a day!

The crazy truck that looked like it was going to tip.

Now that's a lot of people!

Eating Sunshine

“That was just like eating sunshine.” The words of Pat Abbott as she tosses a mango pit with a sticky hand out the window. We get a lot of sunshine here at the Equator, but to eat it... tangy, sweet, orangey goodness? Definitely smile producing and endorphin releasing! And so many ways in which to experience this deliciousness: mango salsa, smoothies, pie, crisp, slaw, margaritas. Mango season comes 2 times a year and each season is anticipated with great excitement as the trees get blooms and the tiny green fruit grows, getting dotted with pink and orange. Oh glorious mangos! I knew when I came back from America mango season would be beginning. On the way back to Bundibugyo as the switch backs are beginning there is a place on the side of the road where you can get a plastic grocery bag full for 50 cents. I bought a bag and eagerly pealed a sizable mango as soon as I got home, leaning over the kitchen sink juice running down my arm. Sunshine... pure sunshine!

Lydia enjoys eating sunshine too!

People asked me when I was home what American foods I most missed eating. I miss oreos and ice cream and a few other things that I actually can get in Kampala if I am willing to pay. But some things just can not be packaged or transported. When the tables are turned and I am back in America and the only mango to be found was picked when it was hard as rock, never to reach lovely ripeness. Then this mango was shipped half way around the world to sit under lights, getting the occasional misting in the produce section. This mango for which I am also sure to pay a whole lot more than 50 cents. Then I will miss Uganda and that priceless 50 cent bag. Right now I feel pretty blessed to be right here eating sunshine!

A merry little Christmas

Just a little window into Christmas in Bundibugyo...

Charlie Brown Christmas tree #1... webale electricity this year with means LIGHTS!

Christmas tree #2 (which more accurately is 6 branches wired together)... the dead branches of tree #1 started falling off

RMS Christmas party with special guests Kym and Lydia... Happy Birthday Jesus!

Johnson's Katube living nativity/ RMS program. With Ivan reading in Lubwisi, and Pat costume coordinator. I love how this picture captures the afternoon with our rambunctious shepherds, lovely angel Lilli with pink wings, and expressive Afsa as a beautiful Mary

Two Kings...

... And 3 wise women

Christmas eve at the Johnsons... Chrissy is really excited about santa, Lydia... not so sure :)

Church service on Christmas day... ladies choir in new Christmas dresses